A Weekend in LA
It’s taken me a few weeks to come back down to earth after all of your generous comments on my last post. Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts and for taking time out of your busy schedules to let me know what’s resonating with you on the site and what you’d love to see more of! I carefully considered each and every one. I have to admit, paralysis set in quickly as I felt the need to really hit this post out of the park (wayyyyy, wayyyy out) after all of those nice word, but then I made a failed dessert recipe and the stomach flu descended upon our house, and I thought it might do to relax for a minute and talk about greener pastures in the form of my recent trip to Los Angeles. For those of you who follow along on Instagram, you probably read about this trip: it was a long girls weekend, but with a twist. You know how sometimes when you travel with a big group (or even a small group), you inevitably end up doing some things you’re not particularly excited about? Maybe you get dragged along to a dinner you didn’t want to go to, or a sports game that doesn’t excite you? Well, the majority of women that gathered in LA are moms of young kids and a weekend away is precious and rare, so it was particularly important that we all got to do what we were most excited about – our getaway’s semi-official name had been You Do You. We all chipped in and rented a house and came together for a shared dinner but beyond that, the hope was that we’d all do exactly what inspires us and lights us up as individuals. No guilt, no hard feelings, no wondering if someone would rather be somewhere else. Just straight up, gloriously selfish time doing exactly what we all needed to do for ourselves. I’ll show you around mine.
Now I feel like I should preface this post by saying that this is far from a traditional travel guide as one of my main goals in LA was to really decompress, read, sleep in, and drink my coffee while it’s still hot. (You parents of smaller people out there know what I’m talking about. It’s the little things.) I wasn’t as concerned with seeing grand sights, landmarks or museums on this visit. I should also say that I extended my weekend to have a few nights by myself, so I’ll backup and start there.
I flew into LA Wednesday evening and stayed at The Line Hotel in Koreatown before meeting up with our group at the house we rented in Venice. The Line was great: not as trendy as The Ace (which has made me feel old in the last few years); great views of the Hollywood Hills, and really fun, inventive food. I ended up ordering room service noodles and a Negroni and going to bed early (I’ve had much worse nights), and woke the next morning ready to explore.
The first order of business was to head downtown to check out Eggslut, which I’d heard had legendary egg sandwiches. What I hadn’t heard about were the lines at Eggslut, so while the sandwich itself was mighty fine indeed, I’m not entirely sure I’d do it again. But the sun was out and Eggslut’s located inside Grand Central Market, which is a really cool open-air food hall with all kinds of treats, good coffee, fancy juice, baked goods, chocolate — you name it. So it was a nice mini introduction to some of LA’s popular food spots.
That afternoon, I headed to Wii spa, a great Korean spa that specializes in those brutal naked body scrubs (have you heard of these?!) and great shiatsu massage. If you find yourself with a free afternoon in downtown LA and are into things like humbling naked body scrubs, I can’t recommend it enough. Even if you’re not, they have a really relaxing rooftop deck that feels more like a fancy hotel, and a lot of breezy common spaces where you can lounge and unwind. So I went and soaked and scrubbed and walked back to the hotel to get ready to meet up with my friends Ashley, who’d flown in early as well, and Nicole for dinner at local spot, Escala. Nicole has a really special book that just came out and a son just about Oliver’s age, so we all chatted about writing and creativity and motherhood and ate marginal kale salad and kimchi mac and cheese. After dinner, Ashley and I hobbled back to the hotel, both in incredibly ill-advised footwear.
The next morning, I headed to Sqirl for some of that famed ricotta toast and jam. While I know it’s become a bit of an LA breakfast cliche of sorts, I really respect what Jessica Koslow is doing there and have long loved her laid back, vegetable / grain-heavy approach to food. I ordered one of those dreamy toasts (soft, fragrant brioche under a pillowy, luscious layer of ricotta and jam!) and a seasonal special of braised chickpeas and greens with harissa and poached eggs. Oh, and it came with long toast. Yes, apparently they literally mean long toast (as you can see in the photo below). While I’ve never been a real fan of eating out solo, I made a point to take my time and not worry if someone else looked like they needed my table. I tried to stay off of my phone, pulled out my journal, and just really appreciated that famous-for-a-reason toast. Good God.
After strolling the neighborhood a bit, I drove over to Venice to meet up with a few friends and get settled in our house for the weekend. While I wasn’t the slightest bit hungry, we were all excited to check out Rose Cafe and had a little time to kill before check in, so we shared a few small things and started brainstorming for the weekend ahead. I realize there are a million kale salads out there in the universe, but the one at Rose Cafe — with pickled golden raisins, mint, thinly sliced onions, lots of bread crumbs and Parmesan — is special. I’d return for that salad, those beautiful baked goods, and that airy expansive space any day.
Throughout the afternoon, ladies started trickling in from the airport and Julie, our fearless leader, arranged to have all kinds of snacks and wine and fizzy water ready for everyone at the house. That evening was the only real solid dinner plan we had as a group all weekend, and it was a good one: Gjelina. We seem to have really scored with a long table out on the patio where there was a warm breeze and lots of wine and friends new and old (I’d only met five of the ten women before that weekend). One end of the table just kept ordering food that made it’s way down to our end — from wood-fired pizzas to roasted cauliflower and warm date cake, it was a memorable meal to kick off what would be a great time together.
The next morning was where You Do You really came into its own. A few ladies took off on a long run, others stayed by the pool or walked downtown, and my new friend Azurae and I decided to check out a yoga class at Love Yoga. I feel like I could write a whole blog post on how incredibly, fascinating-ly LA our yoga class was, but I’ll instead just say that while it wouldn’t be my home studio if I lived in LA, it always feels good to move and breathe (how’s that for diplomatic?).
After yoga, we stopped at the much-talked about and sometimes-mocked Moonjuice for a pricey green juice (I couldn’t help myself; I had to see what all the fuss was about), after which, deciding that balance is always important and now very much called for, we cruised over to Gjusta for a flaky croissant. I could’ve spent two hours at Gjusta just people-watching, and ogling all the baked goods and crusty breads and bagels and smoked fish and pickled things and interesting cookies and brownies made with flours I’m excited about. Those of you who recommended it were right: it’s an LA must.
While we’d all hoped and hoped for some hot LA sun (Seattleites are a desperate lot this time of year), the weather had – so far – been pretty mild and, occasionally, even a bit chilly. But when we walked out of Gjusta the clouds parted and we booked it home to sit by the pool for a good couple of hours. You Do You was in full effect at this point, ladies wandering in and out throughout the afternoon. I ended up sneaking away to cruise Abbot Kinney Boulevard by myself for a bit where I stumbled into some great shops (Burro and Huset were a few favorites) and treated myself to a late lunch at The Butcher’s Daughter which was my favorite casual meal in LA. The food is imaginative, interesting and solid (I had a Cauliflower “grits” dish I want to recreate for the blog) and the space is just beautiful. Go if you have the chance!
That night, we got casual Mexican food and picked up pints of ice cream from Jeni’s (my first time at an actual scoop shop!) to take back to the house. The weekend was coming to a close, and we all started talking flight logistics and household chores to get everything in order before we headed out. I watched an incredible episode of Chef’s Table on Jeong Kwan (thank you, Ashley!) on the plane home, finished my book, and let the weekend settle in. I was impressed that You Do You went off without a hitch: everyone respected each others’ space and we all encouraged one another to check out things that interested us. There was no guilt or pretense or expectation. While I can’t say that I’ve ever been a ‘girls weekend kinda girl’, I think there’s something about having Oliver that’s changed me a little: it’s nice to get away with ladies who share the desire to … get away. That’s it. And who respect what a big and fortunate and sacred thing that is.
In a recent post on Cup of Jo, Danielle Aceino was interviewed about her beauty routine, but several lines in particular – an aside, almost – really hit home: “Let yourself be inspired by yourself and be alive to who you are. Our unedited self is gorgeous and profound; it guides everything else.” I tucked this in my pocket in Los Angeles and carried it around with me. When I felt slightly uncomfortable at the table dining alone or unsure what I should do with a chunk of time in between more structured activities, I’d remind myself to just sit and listen for a minute. Hang with myself. Get to know myself as a person again — without a little one tugging at my jeans or business emails awaiting replies. And I don’t think you need a sunny city or a You Do You escape to do that. I think sometimes it takes a lot of deliberate effort to get there and becomes really difficult when our daily routines feel constraining, but one thing I took home with me: a solo meal out by yourself or a long walk to nowhere in particular is a mighty fine start.
Healthy Comfort Food
Thai Carrot, Coconut and Cauliflower Soup
People describe raising young kids as a particular season in life. I hadn't heard this until we had a baby, but it brought me a lot of comfort when I'd start to let my mind wander, late at night between feedings, to fears that we'd never travel internationally again or have a sit-down meal in our dining room. Would I ever eat a cardamom bun in Sweden? Soak in Iceland? I loved the heck out of our tiny Oliver, but man what had we done?! Friends would swoop in and reassure us that this was just a season, a blip in the big picture of it all. They promised we'd likely not even remember walking around the house in circles singing made-up songs while eating freezer burritos at odd hours of the day (or night). And it's true.
Oliver is turning two next month, and those all-encompassing baby days feel like a different time, a different Us. In many ways, dare I say it, Toddlerhood actually feels a bit harder. Lately Oliver has become extremely opinionated about what he will and will not wear -- and he enforces these opinions with fervor. Don't get near the kid with a button-down shirt. This week at least. He's obsessed with his rain boots and if it were up to him, he'd keep them on at all times, especially during meals. He insists on ketchup with everything (I created a damn monster), has learned the word "trash" and insists on throwing found items away on his own that really, truly are not trash. I came to pick him up from daycare the other day and he was randomly wearing a bike helmet -- his teacher mentioned he'd had it on most of the day and really, really didn't want to take it off. The kid has FEELINGS. I love that about him, and wouldn't want it any other way. But, man it's also exhausting.
Cheesy Quinoa Cauliflower Bake
I just finished washing out Oliver's lunchbox and laying it out to dry for the weekend. My favorite time of day is (finally) here: the quiet of the evening when I can actually talk to Sam about our day or sit and reflect on my own thoughts after the inevitable dance party or band practice that precedes the bedtime routine lately. Before becoming pregnant for the second time, I'd have had a glass of wine with the back door propped open right about now -- these days though, I have sparkling water or occasionally take a sip from one of Sam's hard ciders. Except now the back door's closed and we even turned on the heat for the first time yesterday. The racing to water the lawn and clean the grill have been replaced by cozier dinners at home and longer baths in the evening. You blink and it's the first day of fall.
Stuffed Shells with Fennel and Radicchio
I'd heard from many friends that buying a house wasn't for the faint of heart. But I always shrugged it off, figuring I probably kept better files or was more organized and, really, how hard could it be? Well, I've started (and stopped) writing this post a good fifteen times which may indicate something. BUT! First thing's first: we bought a house! I think! I'm pretty sure! We're still waiting for some tax transcripts to come through and barring any hiccough with that, we'll be moving out of our beloved craftsman in a few weeks and down the block to a great, brick Tudor house that we wanted the second we laid eyes on it. The only problem: it seemed everyone else in Seattle had also laid eyes on it, and wanted it equally as much. I'm not really sure why the homeowner chose us in the end. Our offer actually wasn't the highest, but apparently there were some issues with a few of them. We wrote a letter introducing ourselves and describing why we'd be the best candidates and why we were so drawn to the house; we have a really wonderful broker who pulled out all the stops, and after sifting through 10 offers and spending a number of hours deliberating, they ended up going with ours. We were at a friend's book event at the time when Sam showed me the text from our broker and I kind of just collapsed into his arms. We were both in ecstatic denial (wait, is this real?! Did we just buy a house?) and celebrated by getting chicken salad and potato salad from the neighborhood grocery store and eating it, dazed, on our living room floor. Potato salad never tasted so good.
Smoky Butternut Squash and Three Bean Chili
If your house is anything like ours, last week wasn't our most inspired in terms of cooking. We're all suffering from the post-election blues -- the sole upside being Oliver's decision to sleep-in until 7 am for the first time in many, many months; I think he's trying to tell us that pulling the covers over our heads and hibernating for awhile is ok. It's half-convincing. For much of the week, instead of cooking, there'd been takeout pizza and canned soup before, at week's end, I decided it was time to pour a glass of wine and get back into the kitchen. I was craving something hearty and comforting that we could eat for a few days. Something that wouldn't remind me too much of Thanksgiving because, frankly, I can't quite gather the steam to start planning for that yet. It was time for a big bowl of chili.
To Talk Porridge
Porridge is not the sexiest of breakfasts, it's true. It doesn't have a stylish name like strata or shakshuka, and it doesn't have perfectly domed tops like your favorite fruity muffin. It doesn't crumble into delightful bits like a good scone nor does it fall into buttery shards like a well-made croissant. But when you wake up and it's 17 degrees outside (as it has been, give or take a few, for the last week), there's nothing that satisfies like a bowl of porridge or oatmeal. It's warm and hearty and can be made sweet or savory with any number of toppings. The problem? Over the years, it's gotten a bad rap as gluey or gummy or just downright boring or dutiful -- and it's because not everyone knows the secrets to making a great pot of warm morning cereal. So let's talk porridge (also: my cookbook comes out this month! So let's take a peek inside, shall we?)
Connie
Wow, I love the you do you thing as a travel concept, and thank you for the food recommendations! I just watched Flaked on Netflix recently and your post feeds into my Venice obsession perfectly!
Kate
Sounds utterly amazing!!! While I've always loved girls weekends, I agree that they seem much more necessary when you've got a young child. But normally I go with my 2 best friends and we do everything together - I like your idea of having some down, alone time in the mix too!
CP
What an incredibly lovely thought to sit with during awkward times, or any time you can find a moment, something we can all remind ourselves much more often. This trip sounds like my kind of heaven, well done for creating the space to do it.
nicole
Living the dream! I love this idea. I had a sort of similar weekend last year with two good friends in SF and while we spent much of our time together we luckily wanted to do many of the same things (yoga/coffee/run, etc). I would love to have a solo weekend if only to sleep ;) Maybe in 6 months or so when the little one is a little bit bigger. Glad you had such an amazing time!
Sarah
It took me four attempts to read this post in between caring for my 7 week old daughter, but it was worth if for the sunshine, the gorgeous food and the beautiful words. And the idea that one day in my future there might be girls' weekends again!
Miranda
I've been trudging through snow here in Ottawa this weekend (spring, where are you?) so this post arrived like a tiny beacon of light. It was like a little respit from the cold to read about your sunny LA weekend. But what I can so relate to is the need to take time for yourself, and learning to be ok in those moments, getting to know yourself again. Daily life does feel constraining at times, and I'm constantly trying to carve out moments like that. You do you, my new motto.
Courtney
You're time away sounds perfect. I'm not much of a girl's weekend person either, but I have in this past year been taking short trips away from my spouse and now four year old. Not for work, just for me (and I like to think for them too, as they get just each other for a while). With a friend, I took a train from Seattle to Vancouver, and a few months later, I took a ferry from Tacoma where I rented a little room for two nights just for me right on the water on Vashon Island. Sometimes, it's just an hour for a solo walk when work and family gets busy. Some folks tell me it's selfish, and sure, I guess it might be. But in the long run, I'm a more satisfied whole person. To the tiny little things, like a cup of hot coffee and an afternoon without a plan.
Sarah
What a gorgeous post - I have so enjoyed reading it! I love the concept of a You Do You mini break, and it seems like you all had a really wonderful time.
Ashley Rodriguez
Yes! You captured our weekend so beautifully and you leave me even more excited for our next You Do You.