Dark and Spicy Pumpkin Loaf

Dark and Spicy Pumpkin Loaf | A Sweet Spoonfu

It turns out that returning from a sunny honeymoon to a rather rainy, dark stretch of Seattle fall hasn’t been the easiest transition. Sam and I have been struggling a little to find our groove with work projects and even simple routines like cooking meals for one another and getting out of the easy daily ruts that can happen to us all. When we were traveling, we made some new vows to each other — ways we can keep the fall and winter from feeling a bit gloomy, as tends to happen at a certain point living in the Pacific Northwest (for me, at least): from weekly wine tastings at our neighborhood wine shop to going on more lake walks. And I suppose that’s one of the most energizing and invigorating parts about travel, isn’t it? The opposite of the daily rut: the constant newness and discovery around every corner.

One of my favorite small moments in Italy took place at a cafe in Naples when I accidentally ordered the wrong pastry and, instead, was brought this funny looking cousin of a croissant. We had a wonderfully sunny little table with strong cappuccino, and, disappointed by my lack of ordering prowess, I tried the ugly pastry only to discover my new favorite treat of all time (and the only one I can’t pronounce): the sfogliatelle. I couldn’t stop talking about this pastry, its thick flaky layers wrapped around a light, citrus-flecked sweet ricotta filling. It was like nothing I’d ever tried — the perfect marriage of interesting textures and flavors. I became a woman obsessed. I began to see them displayed on every street corner; I researched their origin back at the hotel room, and started to look up recipes for how to recreate them at home. And the reason for the fascination was obviously that they were delicious. But even more: I’m so immersed in the food writing world that I rarely get a chance to discover a dish or a restaurant on my own without hearing tell of it first. And while a long way away from that Italian cafe, I had a similar feeling this week as I scanned the pages of Alice Medrich’s new book, Flavor Flours, and baked up a loaf of her beautiful fall pumpkin loaf: Discovery, newness, delight!

 

Alice Medrich's Flavor Flours | A Sweet Spoonful

If you’re familiar with Alice Medrich’s previous books, you know that she’s truly a dessert genius with meticulously-tested recipes that span from the very classic to the innovative. This book takes a different approach in that each recipe features what she calls “flavor flours,” wheat-free flours that contribute different rich flavors (as well as colors) to your favorite baked goods. There are flours I’ve worked with often like buckwheat (a favorite of mine on this site) or oat flour, and then there are those that are new to me like white rice or chestnut flour. I remember first reading Kim Boyce’s book, Good to the Grain, and feeling this sense of excitement as a new approach to baking and a whole range of ingredients opened up to me, and I feel similarly with Alice’s insistence that flavor should rule and that whole grain baking doesn’t need to be fussy or complex; most of these recipes are incredibly simple.

Dark and Spicy Pumpkin Loaf | A Sweet Spoonful

Choosing flours for their flavor is a new concept to many because flour is often seen as the agent that helps our bread to rise or our cookies to come together. Much like sugar is often just seen as a generic canvas to sweeten, flour is viewed as a reliable leavener — that’s it. But different whole grain and nut flours boast completely distinct flavors and these can be immensely exciting to experiment with. If we take this recipe in particular as an example: this bread features warm fall spices and darker flavors like pumpkin, so Alice opts to use buckwheat flour for its earthiness (she calls it an “almost woodsy note”). If you just swapped in all-purpose flour or a more mild whole grain flour here, the bread wouldn’t taste as complex; the flour itself is actually helping flavor this loaf. In addition to buckwheat flour, this loaf relies on white rice flour which I hadn’t worked with before and which I’ve fallen in love with. It has such a lightness to it, and a really mild flavor so it allows the more dominant flavors (here, pumpkin) of a recipe to really shine. It’s common for whole grain muffins and loaves to be a bit squatty — and in my experience, more so with gluten-free flours. But the crumb in this loaf is so light and delicate that I’d take squatty, tender and packed with flavor any day.

Dark and Spicy Pumpkin Loaf | A Sweet Spoonful

I’ve long been playing with whole grain flours in our kitchen, but this past year I’ve been getting really excited about the way that different natural sugars help infuse flavor into baked goods in much the same way, so I decided to use muscovado sugar here for its dark, almost damp sweetness, and I folded in a handful of dark chocolate chips at the end for an extra treat. This bread lasted all of two days in our house and thankfully Sam just left with a generous hunk to take with friends on a quick overnight trip to one of the islands. It’s a good one to share — to spread the delight.

 

Dark and Spicy Pumpkin Loaf (Gluten Free)

Dark and Spicy Pumpkin Loaf (Gluten Free)

  • Yield: 6-8 servings
  • Prep time: 10 mins
  • Cook time: 45 mins
  • Total time: 55 mins

Alice’s recipe is perfect as is, but I’ve been craving chocolate lately so I decided to fold in a few leftover dark chocolate chips we had in the cabinet, and I love the look of the top of this loaf sprinkled with colorful pepitas. It’s wonderful toasted with butter — morning, noon, or night.

Slightly adapted from: Alice Medrich’s Flavor Flours

Ingredients

8 tablespoons (1 stick/115g) unsalted butter, melted
1 cup (190g) muscovado sugar (or any unrefined cane sugar)
2 large eggs
3/4 cup (120g) white rice flour or 1 1/4 cups (120g) Thai white rice flour
1/3 cup (40g) buckwheat flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup (170g) pumpkin puree
1/2 cup (80g) dark chocolate chips, optional
1/4 cup (35g) pepitas/raw pumpkin seeds, to top

Instructions

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 F. Line the bottom and sides of the loaf pan with parchment paper.

Combine the butter, sugar, and eggs in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat on medium speed with the paddle attachment until lighter in color, about 2 minutes. Alternatively, use a handheld mixer and beat for 3-4 minutes.

Add the rice and buckwheat flours, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, pumpkin puree and beat on low speed until smooth. Fold in the chocolate chips. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan, and sprinkle the top with pepitas.

Bake the loaf for 45 -50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool the loaf in the pan for at least 2 hours before unmolding and slicing. The cake keeps, wrapped airtight, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Let come to room temperature (or toast!) to serve.

Note: To make muffins, line 12 regular muffin cups and prepare batter (See above). Bake at 375 F for about 20 minutes, or until toothpick comes out clean. 

Comments

  1. Mary

    As a kid, I was fascinated by sfogiatelle after seeing a recipe in a Martha Stewart book. I bought a (very cheap) pasta roller just to make them. After the first test left me with a broken pasta roller and pretty unimpressive pastries, I abandoned them altogether. It wasn't until I made them in culinary school some ten years later with proper instruction (and homemade ricotta filling) that I understood how great they can be.

    I also have been obsessing over Flavor Flours. I haven't been so inspired by a book in a while. I work at a bakery, and I have been persuading my boss to order all sorts of flours for me to experiment with. I'm really excited to work with teff and chestnut flours especially.

  2. Kathryn

    I really need to get a copy of this book! I've loved everything I've read about it and this loaf sounds wonderful - the combination of those autumn spices with buckwheat flour is a particular favourite combination of mine at the moment.

  3. wonderful recipe of the week- november 11 | Comfort / Food

    […] Dark and Spicy Pumpkin Loaf. What a wonderful description! It sounds exactly like what I want to eat in the late afternoon with my cup of coffee. The most delicious, most wonderful quick bread of all time (whoa, hyperbole, like I could ever decide) is a gingerbread loaf that my mom makes: it has so much molasses in it that it comes out of the oven black, shiny, and so sticky that it clings stubbornly to the knife when you try to dole it out. As such, we’ve come to call it ‘sticky gingerbread.’ Anyway, tangent. The bread that Megan makes here is actually a recipe from Alice Medrich’s Flavor Flours (even more reason to make it), and I dig the addition of buckwheat flour. I’ll probably sub something for the white rice flour, but apart from that…dark pumpkin? Spicy pumpkin? Sold. […]

  4. Marta

    I discovered sfogiatelle last year, on a trip to the amalfi coast. I remember reading about it in our Lonely Planet guide, and not being able to rest until I got my hands (and mouth!) on one. I first tried it in a small cafe in Naples — it was pouring outside but I had heaven in my mouth. Ever since then I have seen it in food markets and italian cafes in London, but it’s not quite the same :(

    Hope you can shake off that fall-in-seattle blue feeling and bake your way through it :)

  5. Kasey

    This is so. my. thing. So. I hear ya on the slump that comes after vacation -- send some of your rain and gloom our way, would ya? We need it? xxx

    1. megang

      Ohhhh I want to transport some of our rain your way. I really, really do (although today was actually sunny so I should probably keep quiet). xox

  6. Susan

    Flour Flavors is wonderful!! Have made several things and next up is the Butterscotch Pudding with Single Malt...Whoo Hoo

  7. Abby

    Is white rice flour the same as sweet rice flour? I love using it in baked goods (first introduced by Ashley @Edible Perspective who uses it in her baked donuts)!

    1. megang

      Abby: It's not the same! Sweet rice flour is more "glutinous" as its ground from what we call sticky rice (short grain white rice versus the long or medium grain that is used to make rice flour). Sweet rice flour will have more starch, and I almost bought it at the store instead because it was quite a bit cheaper, but I think it would actually make a big difference in a recipe calling for regular rice flour. For this recipe I used Bob's stone ground rice flour. Hope that helps!

  8. Charlotte @ Drop Dead Bread

    I think everyone gets a bit of a slump when the weather turns cold.
    This loaf, though, looks like just the right sort of thing to perk you back up again!

  9. thelittleloaf

    I've been hearing such wonderful things about this book on various blogs and this pumpkin loaf looks like no exception. Love your addition of chocolate chips - the only way to improve on perfection.

  10. Carole

    Embrace the gray, baby! It's possible to actually look forward to fall and winter coming on for many reasons......yummy pumpkin bread being one of them. I love the coziness of thick sweaters, corduroy pants and wool socks, a pot of soup on the stove, fire in the fireplace, eating by candlelight, watching our Charles Dickens movies one installment per night, etc. I love that expectations are are lower in winter: no perennials to deadhead, no garden to weed, no car to wash. Just stay inside and keep the house smelling like cinnamon and after a few more years you'll be A true North Westerner. You will love the sound of rain and howling wind will just make you hop up and bake something that only sounds good when the weather is bad.

  11. Mary

    Megan, it is pronounced "sfoo-ya-tell". Now you can say it like an Italian!

    1. megang

      Mary! THANK YOU!

  12. Nurith

    I just made an adaptation of this recipe and it came out great! I had two bananas that were way overripe so I made banana bread instead of pumpkin. I used half the amount of dark muscovado sugar and reduced the amount of cinnamon and nutmeg. The other changes: used brown rice flour instead of white, added some walnuts and a splash of vanilla. The loaf was so tempting I didn't bother to cool it before trying it. Not even 20 minutes out of the oven and half the loaf is gone! Thanks for the recipe and inspiration! I've made a few of your baked goods and they're always a success. It's such a pleasure reading your blog.

  13. Kelly

    Your pumpkin loaf looks delicious. Thanks for the info on flours- I had no idea! Can't wait to try this!

  14. francesca

    Great minds! Just made a one-bowl pumpkin loaf, too :)

  15. Liesel

    I have all the ingredients on hand and would really like to make this. What size loaf pan did you use?

    1. megang

      Hi, Liesel! Oh, I just used a standard size 9" loaf pan. Enjoy!

  16. kristie {birch and wild}

    Your trip sounds lovely. I want to discover new pastries in Italy! But no, I am stuck in the gloomy, cold interior of British Columbia. I think I will make this pumpkin bread though, to keep me warm and make me feel cozy. It looks lovely.

  17. Caitlin @ teaspoon

    I'm excited to try this. Of the two non-regular flours I have, they happen to be these. And I also have a pumpkin waiting to be roasted and pureed. This sounds perfect for Thanksgiving morning.

    1. megang

      Awesome, Caitlin! I hope you enjoy! ~Megan

  18. JoAnn

    Megan, this is delicious! I have an allergy to wheat and so love trying new and different flour combinations. The flavor of the buckwheat really comes through in this and, you are right, the crumb is so very light. This is one of those recipes I will make again and again through the cold months in Northern California. I think I will need to also get Flavor Flours - it will be a great addition to my collection! Thank you so much for sharing!

  19. Zanna

    Hi Megan,

    I apologize, this post has absolutely nothing to do with food. I'm obsessed with the black and white top you're wearing in the about me section. So funky, so classy! Would you mind sharing where you got it?

    Ps. The Loaf looks delicious as well!

    1. megang

      Thanks, Zanna! It's from Madewell a few years ago.

  20. Jamie

    Somehow, I've come to own only miniature loaf pans and not a full-size loaf pan. Do you think this would work in miniature loaf pans?

    1. megang

      Sure thing, Jamie. You may just need to adjust the bake time (should bake up a little quicker). Enjoy!

  21. lizykat

    Thank you for this recipe. I was doing side by side comparison baking for pumpkin bread as I whittle down my copious recipes, I mean, how many recipes for pumpkin bread does one need? Hands DOWN this one wins. I happened to have both flours in the cupboard and the taste was just delicious!! Thanks again.

    1. megang

      Well I'm so glad the pumpkin bread won out; I do love this recipe so much (it may have a little something to do with the dark chocolate). ~Megan

  22. Adriana

    I baked this yesterday as muffins, they are very good, my daughter said they are addictive 😉
    I used half butter half coconut oil and brown rice flour, 14 medium-small delicious muffins came out
    Thanks for sharing 😊

    1. megang

      Thanks so much for sharing your swaps, Adriana. Your version sounds delicious and so glad that your daughter liked them! Have a great weekend.

Join the Discussion

Winter Soups and Stews

Smoky Butternut Squash and Three Bean Chili

Smoky Butternut Squash and Three Bean Chili

If your house is anything like ours, last week wasn't our most inspired in terms of cooking. We're all suffering from the post-election blues -- the sole upside being Oliver's decision to sleep-in until 7 am for the first time in many, many months; I think he's trying to tell us that pulling the covers over our heads and hibernating for awhile is ok. It's half-convincing. For much of the week, instead of cooking, there'd been takeout pizza and canned soup before, at week's end, I decided it was time to pour a glass of wine and get back into the kitchen. I was craving something hearty and comforting that we could eat for a few days. Something that wouldn't remind me too much of Thanksgiving because, frankly, I can't quite gather the steam to start planning for that yet. It was time for a big bowl of chili.

Read More
5 Tips For Cooking with a Baby + Power Greens Soup

5 Tips For Cooking with a Baby + Power Greens Soup

Last weekend it was so windy – apocalyptically stormy, you could say – that our tent at the farmers market was uprooted by gusts of wind that were not messing around. I wasn't there, but apparently despite being heavily weighted down and with four customers holding onto each corner, it quite literally blew down the block. Sam, from across town, was reporting trees falling on every block and traffic lights out across the city. The next morning on a walk with Oliver around Green Lake, we were met with that same biting wind and ended up retreating for a hot chocolate instead. 'Tis the season in Seattle: we all get a little giddy and ahead of ourselves when we spot the cherry blossoms and daffodils, and I always trick myself into thinking that with the start of daylight savings time,  summer must be right around the corner. In truth, before we had Oliver, we'd often travel somewhere sunny for a little mood boost around this time of year. When I moved from California, many friends – other (empathetic) 'expats' now living in the Pacific Northwest – recommended this: if you know what's good for you, they'd all say, go find the sun in February or March, and we would follow that advice faaaaaithfully. But with a baby, this just isn't where our priorities are this year, and I've found myself relying on other antics like buying out of season strawberries, drinking white wine with dinner, buying a new pair of sandals that likely will not see the light of day for the next two months, and making big, colorful pots of feel good, springy soup. Let's not kid ourselves: Cherry blossoms or not, Seattle's no Palm Springs when it gets down to bathing in the sunlight. But if you step outside onto your little porch, smell the honeysuckle blooming, take notice of the longer, lighter days and think about how you simply can't wait to see your baby crawling around on the sand when it's warm enough to stroll down to the beach, it starts looking better in its own light. 

Read More
Minestrone Verde with White Beans and Pesto

Minestrone Verde with White Beans and Pesto

We returned home from San Francisco on New Years Eve just in time for dinner, and craving greens -- or anything other than baked goods and pizza (ohhhh San Francisco, how I love your bakeries. And citrus. And winter sunshine).  Instead of driving straight home, we stopped at our co-op where I ran in for some arugula, an avocado, a bottle of Prosecco, and for the checkout guys to not-so-subtly mock the outlook of our New Years Eve: rousing party, eh? They looked to be in their mid-twenties and I figured I probably looked ancient to them, sad even. But really, there wasn't much sad (or rousing, to be fair) about our evening: putting Oliver to bed, opening up holiday cards and hanging them in the kitchen, and toasting the New Year with arugula, half a quesadilla and sparkling wine. It wasn't lavish. But it's what we both needed. (Or at least what we had to work with.) Since then, I've been more inspired to cook lots of "real" food versus all of the treats and appetizers and snacks the holidays always bring on. I made Julia Turshen's curried red lentils for the millionth time, a wintry whole grain salad with tuna and fennel, roasted potatoes, and this simple green minestrone that I've taken for lunch this week. Determined to fit as many seasonal vegetables into a bowl as humanly possible, I spooned a colorful pesto on top, as much for the reminder of warmer days to come as for the accent in the soup (and for the enjoyment later of slathering the leftover pesto on crusty bread).

Read More
Simple Cooking: Pasta and Chickpea Soup

Simple Cooking: Pasta and Chickpea Soup

One of the things I wanted to accomplish before really returning to work in earnest was to print some of our honeymoon photos and get them into an album. This project has taken far longer than expected as I find myself daydreaming about the craggy streets of Naples and meeting up with our friends Mataio and Jessica for a late night slice of pizza which we ate sitting on the sidewalk before embarking on an aimless but wonderful stroll of the city. There are photos of our balcony by the sea, most with tanned limbs, sandy sandals and a Campari and soda gracing the periphery of the frame. There was the little grocery store up the hill from our apartment on the Amalfi Coast that had the sweetest, tiniest strawberries and the best yogurt in little glass jars. Tomatoes drying in the sun, Aperol spritzes and salty peanuts before dinner at the bar across from the church square where all the neighborhood kids played kickball. As I sit here typing this now, photos remain scattered on my desk and it's likely they may not make it into the proper slots in the album anytime soon. Of course, they have me dreaming of sunshine and long days with little agenda, but they also have me thinking about the simplicity of our meals in Italy and how truly easy it was to eat well. Coincidentally, a few days ago Rachel Roddy's lusty new cookbook (can we call it lusty?!), My Kitchen in Rome, arrived at our doorstep. Clearly it was time to set the photos aside and get into the kitchen. 

Read More
Returning Home

Returning Home

And suddenly, it's fall. I find that realization always comes not so much with the dates on the calendar as it does the leaves on the ground, the first crank of the heat in the morning, the dusky light on the way home from an evening run. Because we were gone on the train for nearly a week, I feel like fall happened here in Seattle during that very time. I left town eating tomatoes and corn and returned to find squashes and pumpkins in the market. It was that quick. And so, it only seemed fitting that I make this soup, one that has graced the fall table of each and every apartment (and now house) I've ever lived. In fact, I'm surprised that I hadn't yet made it for you here, and delighted to share it with you today. 

Read More